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Accessories Are Everything, It's Not All Doom-And-Gloom & More From The Ready-To-Wear Runways

London Fashion Week keeping calm.

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It’s incredible how much can happen in a week. The New York runways rounded off with a series of vivid shows from Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs. Then, London bravely opened its doors to the fashion industry despite the scuppered terrorist attack that coincided with the first round of shows on the British circuit on Friday morning. 

Nevertheless, keeping calm and carrying on is their blood, and thank god everything went ahead as scheduled because the collections coming from the capital have been in equal parts glorious and exuberant. Generally speaking, we expect to see two main camps in London: slick tailors channelling Savile Row and eccentric designs from the alumnus of Central Saint Martins, but this year it feels like the two have converged to bring us some truly unique and several unexpected pieces. 

Here’s everything you need to know from the ready-to-wear SS18 runways from the past 7 days: 

Coach


Images: Vogue.com

The final few days in New York proved to be worth the wait: we saw a very slick, grown-up update on the Americana vibes that Coach has been driving for several seasons: some of the campness that could otherwise make these looks feel like dress-up costumes has been toned down but the casual ‘70s cowboy undertone remains, making for a seriously cool selection of understated metallic pieces, luxe accessories and the occasional Keith Haring motif adding cartoonish clout. 

Michael Kors Collection


Images: Wwd.com

Michael Kors’ collection was a celebration of simplicity, with oversized cuts in a soft pastel palette dominating the runway. We’re particularly excited to see the return of the bucket hat with this look book – though it’s a little more Palm Springs retirement chic than ironic ‘90s Kangol coolkid throwback. The prints were the real stand-out, blurring their way from fauna to tie dye to ombre. Just scrolling through the images induces an internal soundtrack of tropical tunes. 

The row


Images: Businessoffashion.com

As ever The Row delivered a stellar selection of perfectly cut pieces that seem effortless, but that are meticulously detailed. The color scheme was just as sumptuous: with many caramel browns put forward as a springtime alternative to difficult, dazzling whites or dull darker shades. But it was the asymmetrical, draped lilac dress that closed the show that really took our breath away. 

Marc Jacobs


Images: Vogue.com
Occasionally, Marc Jacobs misses the mark entirely – who can forget Gigi Hadid wearing dreadlocks in the designer’s SS17 show? This season, however, he nailed it: almost all of the 56 looks presented were topped with a headscarf. We love that, finally, women who buy designer scarves with the intention of working them into turbans and wraps can see how the designer would interpret that particular print or fabric. The scarves weren’t the only accessories to catch out attention, either. We can’t wait for the oversized, ‘80s rock climber fanny packs to hit stores. As far as the clothes went, we loved the David Byrne-style suiting that opened the show in strong shades of orange and hot pink, and we’re sure to see plenty of the sleuthy turn-of-the-century-esque gowns on red carpets before too long. 

J.W.Anderson


Images: Businessoffasion.com

If you can’t wait to get your hands on J.W.Anderson’s clothes, you’re in luck: the designer’s collab with Uni Qlo hits stores tomorrow and it’s sure to satisfy you in the interim. The SS18 collection had something of a bucolic quality to it, with hip-hitting midi-skirts and smocked, off-the-shoulder crop tops styled with criss-crossing string to connect the two components at the midriff. 

Fashion east


Images: Vogue.com

Fashion East is always an interesting event to attend as it showcases up-and-comers from some of the most well-respected fashion schools in the world (which happen to be in London) and you literally never know what you’re going to get. This year, we saw three collections that drew heavily on each of the designers’ heritages and the ways those cultures have changed to keep up with the contemporary world. Supriya Lele aimed to reference the high-tech, bustling India of today with a selection of slick, asymmetrical pieces in vinyl interspersed with crisp cottons. Sai Ta wanted to form a dialogue about “the concept, and perhaps the fear, of China’s strength” through richly textured and layered outfits displaying a variety of cutting skills, and Matty Bovan chose to dedicate his show to the struggles of growing up in the digital age – with the help of supermodels Eddie Campbell and Winnie Harlow on the runway. 

molly goddard


Images: Londonfashionweek.co.uk

Molly Goddard has secured a place for herself in the hearts of the fashion set with her oversized tulle frocks in a rainbow of satisfying shades. This season we particularly loved seeing some familiar shapes re-worked into everyday fabrics, like cotton, that are picnic-perfect. The young British designer is still showing off her sewing skills with plenty of smocking, ruching and ruffling, but in a more understated way to previous seasons. Complete with a metallic navy blazer, this collection has a day-to-day wearability that perhaps was missing with her earlier designs – now fans can pick and choose between the lavish party dresses and more low-key work wear and never have to spend a day without Molly. 

versus versace


Images: Vogue.com

You don’t need us to tell you that Versus Versace captured the essence of everything going on with the younger style scene, combining plaid pieces (including well-fastened bucket hats) with edgy graphic tees and swathes of tennis-ball green with the ease of an Instagram influencer who’s been doing it since she was born. 

topshop unique

Images: Wwd.com

Over at Topshop Unique, everything was pretty damn fabulous, from the rusty metallic pink pants, jackets and dresses, to the second-skin turtlenecks that formed the foundation to several of the looks and the feather-trimmed frocks and rompers that made up the evening wear selection. Look carefully and this collection is all in the ultra-glam detail: from the pearl-fringed cuffs of a cocoon coat to the rhinestone-embellished pull on a luxe satin track top. 

Emporio Armani


Images: Vogue.com

Emporio Armani was all about the bold-but-clean seaside graphics: a geometric crab on a mesh dress, a colorful, not-quite-candy stripe on a pair of pants. The jackets patterned with under-the-sea emblems like fish, waves and seashells had an almost Scandi quality to them as a result of the block-cut, uniformity of the prints. Further down the collection we saw some tighter motifs that, when worn as a pantsuit, reference the pajama trend. Pastels and embellished berets gave the latter half of the line up an air of the Wes Anderson costume department. 

Shrimps


Images: Londonfashionweek.co.uk

Faux fur wonder-kid Hannah Weiland has taken a step away from her usually twee designs in soft colors with cutesy themes and allowed a bold, confident shade of lime green to dominate her SS18 Shrimps collection. There are still plenty of charming illustrations on the ready-to-wear pieces as well as the outerwear that put this young label on the map, but the attitude has been turned up a notch: the ruffled pants were a particular high point, as was the vinyl sheath dress, but it’s the faux fur slippers worn by each of the models that are on our must-have list. 

Roksanda


Images: Businessoffashion.com

Roksanda was a triumph of smocked dresses with satisfyingly dropped waists that retained some romance despite the oversized silhouette. We particularly fawned over the more ambitious color combos, such as cerulean pants styled with a lustre peach gown finished with a primary yellow pair of sandals. 

Erdem


We loved Erdem’s rich floral pieces offset with contemporary pops of red and sage. The accessories were a real winner, from the dainty, pointed-toe flats sweetly styled with mid-calf stockings to the statement earrings that perfectly complemented the sequined and embroidered designs and the embellished elbow-length gloves. 

Marques ‘ Almeida


Images: Londonfashionweek.co.uk

Marques ‘ Almeida provided a staple collection of bold shirting and asymmetrical skirts in sweeping stripes that weren’t all straight up-and-down. Details we were especially taken with were the feathered hems on a pair of ruffled pants and the Mariah Carey-style pants with the cutoff waistband. Yes. Please. 

christopher kane


Images: Wwd.com

The Christopher Kane Crocs were back on the runway this season and had been given a watersports update with a crystal-clad neoprene covering. While the majority of the looks were as light and fluffy as cotton candy, trash bag-level vinyl pieces were speckled throughout – the gathered dress with oversized yellow drawstrings had us feeling particularly nostalgic for chore day (not). The trash theme carried through the collection, though not quite so blatantly, with slashed sweaters and cut out clothing that gave it the look of damaged goods – with a high-fashion finish, of course. 
Never one to shy away from a fabulous political statement, Ashish’s runway was a sparkling tribute to melancholia. Unusually for a spring summer show, the collection was filled with rich black and gray pieces, livened up but the occasional burst of blood red and the glittering of sequined skirts and to-die-for astronomical appliqué. The sloganed pieces that would usually give some shape to the general mood of the gloriously glum show read “witch,” “mourning” and “queer”. Of the inspiration, the designer told Vogue that “in my head, it’s just this mood I’ve been in for the last couple of months, a dark place. And I don't want to fight it and do something that I'm not feeling – I might as well just use it and treat it as a catharsis.” We certainly hope to find some catharsis in those twinkling night-sky gowns. 

MM6 Maison Margiela


Images: Vogue.com

For his latest collection at Maison Margiela, John Galliano brought us hardcore normcore in the form of muddy jeans, logo tees and transparent glasses, which look like they came straight from a high school science lab and we cannot wait to wear them to chemistry class. We predict the thick, silver cuffs worn as bracelets and arm bands could well take off as an easy-to-wear statement summer trend. 
Cover image: via @shrimps on Instagram 
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